Sticky Upsidedown Cake. June 24.

The second traditional "drop-off point" for thruhikers is Tuolumne
Meadows, the end of the High Sierras and conveniently located near
Yosemite Valley. At this point, hikers have suffered through the
Southern Californian desert and have made it over eight passes by the
skin of their teeth. What else is left after conquering nearly 1000
miles of California's toughest terrain? Some leave feeling
accomplished, others dissappointed in their lack of mental perseverance.

I can empathize with these hikers' after the treacherous, demanding
terrain of the last three days. Team Zero + JO left late Monday for a
short hike (footlong Subway subs in tow) toward the first pass. Kern
was tightly bundled in his new OR bivy sack and Boston and Cubby in
their 8oz. one-person cuban fiber Hexamid (a kind of super
lightweight material on the ultralight hiking scene: www.zpacks.com).

The next morning we climbed back over Kersarge Pass and continued on
to Glen Pass, Happy JO's 2002 nemesis. He cringed at the thought of
stepping onto the icy North side at 11,978ft. Luckily it was slushy
glissading snow and his fear subsided, so much so that he taunted the
massive pass as he slid hundreds of feet down the embankment on his
butt. Unfortunately Glen Pass had the final word, as its progressively
crunchier snow ripped a huge hole in the seat of his pants. Boston and
Cubby got an unanticipated eyeful of Happy JO's bare cheeks, and Happy
JO was sure that he got a snow enema.

The next day was a double dose of Pinchot Pass (12130 ft) and the
often understated, but incredibly technical, Mather Pass--a sheer face
of snow and craggy rock, culminating in a 100ft wide cornice at 12100
ft. At 3pm we sat sprawled at its base, debating the merits of
climbing it or staying low for the night. Curiousity and a pure drive
for excitement won out and we began the two-hour climb to the top. We
put on our microspikes and crampons, strapped on our ice axes, and
lined up in formation: Happy JO, Boston, Cubby, me and Kern.

Happy JO kicked hundreds of steps toward the icy lip on top, amidst
complete silence in the group. The traverse required absolute
concentration: drive ice axe in to slope, step left, step right, stop.

Suddenly while traversing past a rock my foot postholed through the
steep slope and dove into the snow. My balance was lost, the ice axe
in my left hand slipped out of the snow and I fell backwards blindly
with a loud yelp. Luckily I stopped several feet below our steps,
hovering upsidedown on the snow with my pack strap in mouth, my one
foot stuck in the slope above me, and my ice axe dangling by its strap
in my left hand. I didn't dare move, instead asking politely, "Can
someone please hand me my ice axe?"

Happy JO couldn't see anything as he was in the front of the line, but
Cubby and Kern slowly got me back onto our tracks and we continued
toward the top. At last, we arrived at the final boulder and pushed
ourselves over the snow at the top. Safe and sound.

These mountains are tough, and can't be underestimated in such deep
snow. I can empathize with those who have had enough adventure for
this summer. I certainly have had my fill!

Camped just below Muir pass at mile 850. Three more passes to go. Song
for this section is Diana Ross' "Upside Down": "Upside down, Boy,
you turn me inside out and round and round". Mather, you turned me
upside down, but not back around...I'm counting down toward the finish.

(Photo above at the top of Mather Pass!)